DIY Beautiful Shopping Bag | How to Make Sewing Bag Tutorial | Free Pattern.
When finished, Shopping Bag measures approximately 37 x 38 cm. An inner pocket offers space for your wallet, cell phone, tissues, or similar items; an elastic band at the top of the inner pocket prevents small items from falling out.
Inside the bag, there is also an easy-to-open loop where you can attach your keys, for example. The bag can be closed on the outside with a small snap fastener to keep everything secure.
The handle length can be easily adjusted depending on whether you prefer to carry bag by hand or over your shoulder.
You can also use fabric scraps to sew the bag, or you can make bag simply in one color. The seams can be highlighted with piping.
Bag—especially a simplified version (without piping...)—can also be sewn by beginners; it's recommended to read through the entire instructions before sewing.
What you need:
• (Patterned) fabric for the outside of the bag, the handles, and the inner pocket: approx. 70 cm x 100 cm. You can use different fabrics, even scraps, or just one type. Cotton fabrics in a stitched weave are very suitable, but you can also use corduroy, linen, canvas, twill, oilcloth, faux leather, etc.
• Approx. 50 cm x 50 cm (plain) cotton fabric for the lining
• Optional: fusible interfacing to reinforce the outer pattern pieces
• Approx. 190 cm piping
• 18-20 cm elastic, 0.5 cm - 1 cm wide
• 2 Kam snaps (four snaps each)
• Sewing machine, zipper foot
• Sewing thread
• Sewing supplies such as scissors, pins, ruler, etc.
Preparations:
Print out the pattern. Make sure you set your printer to "Margin Settings: None" or "Scale Type: None".
Check the test squares on the pattern to ensure everything is printed correctly.
The pattern pieces do not yet include seam allowances; you need to add 1 cm seam allowances to pattern pieces 1-5 and the lining.
Cut all the cut pieces as follows:
• For the lining, glue pattern pieces 1-3 together to create one large piece. Cut this piece twice on the fold.
• For the bag handles, cut two additional strips of fabric measuring 35 cm x 16 cm. If you plan to carry the bag over your shoulder instead of by hand, you can cut the handles longer – approximately 60 cm.
• For the loop inside the bag, cut a strip of fabric measuring 6 cm x 17 cm.
Mark the position of the inner pocket on one of the lining pattern pieces.
Sewing:
All seams are sewn with a straight stitch (running stitch) on a regular sewing machine. Overlock seams can be sewn with a zigzag stitch or an overlock machine.
If you want to reinforce your bag with fusible interfacing, iron it onto the outer pattern pieces before you begin sewing.
Pin the piping tape along the top edge (right side of fabric!) of pattern piece 1. The piping tape should be flush with the fabric edge at the top. The "curl" of the piping tape should be facing downwards.
To prevent anything from shifting later, sew the piping in place now. This is best done using the zipper foot. Sew directly next to the "bulge" of the piping.
Pin and sew to the top edge (the curved edge) of pattern piece 2 (piping).
Finally, cut pieces 1 and 2 should each have been piped twice along the top edge.
Now you place cut piece 1 right side up on cut piece 2 right side up. The top edge of the lower strip (= "bottom") and the bottom edge of the middle strip should meet, with the piping in between.
Sew the pattern pieces together, using the zipper foot again. When you unfold the strips, the piping will be visible between them. Press the seam allowances downwards.
Similarly, the upper strip (cut piece 3) is now pinned to the middle strip and sewn. Since sewing the two pieces together is a little more difficult due to the curves, it is helpful to start in the middle and sew outwards. Press the seam allowances down again.
Now repeat steps 5-7 so that you have a front and a back of the bag.
Now place the front and back pieces right sides together and pin them along three sides. Make sure the dividing seams/piping are aligned. Sew the front and back pieces together along three sides.
Now the corners need to be shaped. You start at one corner and pin the side seam exactly to the bottom seam of the bag.
Now lay the corner flat in front of you as shown in the picture. From the tip, measure 3.5 cm to the center of the pocket and mark a line at this position at a right angle.
Sew along this line. You can now cut off the excess corner approximately 0.5 cm from the seam. Repeat steps 10-12 with the second corner.
The lining with inner pocket and loop:
For the inner pocket, finish the edges of pattern piece 5 along the sides and bottom edge. You can do this with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch.
Now fold the top edge of the inner pocket inwards by the width of your elastic band + approx. 3 mm, iron it, and fold the whole thing inwards again by the same width.
Iron again and then topstitch close to the edge.
Now begin to pull the rubber band (most easily with the help of a safety pin) through the resulting tube.
As soon as the elastic band is only sticking out by about 0.5 – 1 cm on one side, sew it down close to the edge at that point. It's best to do this seam two to three times.
Now pull the elastic band through to the other end; the fabric will gather as you do so. Sew the elastic band in place at the second end with two or three close-to-the-edge stitches.
Now iron the finished edges of the inner pocket to the back, onto the left side of the fabric.
Pin and sew the inner pocket onto one of the lining pattern pieces. Use the markings on the pattern as a guide; however, these are only guidelines. Depending on how stretched your elastic is, you may need to attach the corners of the inner pocket slightly further in or out. There's also room for a label above the inner pocket, if you want to sew one on.
To make the loop for hanging the key, iron the 6 x 17 cm strip of fabric as follows: Iron the short ends inwards by about 0.5 cm. Iron the long edges inwards so that they meet in the middle.
Now fold the strip in half again so that the open ends disappear inside.
Now sew the strips together.
At the ends you attach the Kam Snaps so that the strip can be closed into a ring.
Now lay this ring flat in front of you and form a loop. Attach this loop to one of the lining cut pieces (the one with the inner pocket) on the left side, approximately 7 cm down from the top edge. The loop should extend into the lining piece.
Now place the lining pieces right sides together and sew them along three sides. Leave a turning opening of approximately 10-15 cm along the bottom edge.
Then you also sew the corners of the lining, just as described for the outer pocket in steps 10-12.
One of the cut pieces for the closure bar is finished with piping. To do this, pin the piping all the way around so that the raised edge faces inwards. Sew the piping in place using a zipper foot.
Place the second pattern piece right side up on the one edged with piping and sew (still using the zipper foot) the two pieces together —leaving the top end open.
To make the curve more beautiful, you can cut the lower part of the bar into a jagged edge (e.g. with pinking shears).
Turn the locking bar over and iron it.
Now you attach it to the outer pocket – on one (!) side in the middle (measure!) between the handles and then sew the closure tab in place within the seam allowance.
For the bag handles, you will need the strips measuring 35 x 16 cm. Fold/iron the first strip lengthwise; the fold marks the center. Unfold the strip and iron the long edges inwards so that they meet at the center line.
Next, fold the strip in half again, so that there are four layers of fabric on top of each other. All the open (longitudinal) edges are now on the inside. Sew along the open side to close the fabric strip. Repeat steps 33 and 34 to sew the second handle.
If you like, you can topstitch the strips for the handles several more times; it looks nice and provides more stability.
The finished handles are now sewn onto the top end of the bag, where the cut has two "extensions". Make sure that the handles are attached exactly in the middle of these "extensions", leaving space to the left and right of the handle for the seam allowance. The handles should point downwards and be folded as shown in the photo, i.e., not twisted.
To connect the outer pocket to the lining, slide the outer pocket and the lining pocket right sides together.
Pin the outer pocket and lining together along the top edges. The handles and the closure tab should be facing inwards and not visible from the outside! The side seams should meet exactly together. Sew along the outer edge all the way around the entire bag, making sure to...
…when you get to the handles, make sure your seam is close to the handles. You shouldn't sew through the handles, nor too far away from them. To prevent the handles from tearing, even when carrying heavy items, you can sew the top seam two or three times. Then trim the seam allowances slightly at the curves or clip them into a zigzag pattern to make turning the bag right side out easier.
Now pull the outer pocket through the turning opening in the lining to the outside.
Then you can close the turning opening with a close-to-the-edge seam or by hand with a mattress stitch.
Now turn the lining inside out and iron the bag. The top edges should lie neatly on top of each other...
… Besides the handle attachments, you can carefully adjust the fabric with a pin so that the corners shape nicely.
Finally, the bag is topstitched all the way around along the top edge, close to the rim.
Now attach the parts of the Kam Snap to the center of the lower section of the closure bar and at the corresponding location on the bag. When closed, the closure bar should not be stretched too tightly over the edge of the bag, but should curve very slightly – 3 to 5 mm – over the edge.
COMPLETE!
Variations:
• For a bag that's easier and quicker to sew, omit the piping, inner pocket, loop, or even the flap closure.
• You can sew the bag from two or three different fabrics, or just one. A bag made from a single-colored fabric with contrasting piping also looks great.
• You can also glue the pattern pieces together, eliminating the need for seams. Either cut all the pattern pieces as one (like with the lining) or glue pattern pieces 1 and 2, or 2 and 3, together. (See the diagram above.)
• Instead of the Kam snap on the flap closure, you can use a different snap fastener, a magnetic closure, hook-and-loop fastener, or a buckle. If you use a regular button, you'll need to sew a buttonhole in the flap.
• To make the bag extra sturdy (or if you're using thinner fabrics), you can reinforce all the outer pattern pieces with fusible interfacing or lightweight batting.
• If you make the bag handles longer (approx. 60 cm), you can comfortably carry the bag over your shoulder.
• By enlarging or reducing all pattern pieces equally, you can sew in different sizes, for example, as a bag for children.
• The size of the inner pocket can also be adjusted to suit your personal preferences. You can even divide the inner pocket into two compartments with a seam, for example, to store your mobile phone.
Design examples:
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