This simple but stylish bucket bag will co-ordinate beautifully with your capsule wardrobe. With its timeless and sophisticated navy wool fabric, leather accents and metal hardware, it will work with any number of outfits, making it a real staple in your wardrobe!
MATERIALS
• 50cm Navy Virgin Wool Fabric
• 50cm lining fabric – Gütermann Marrakech Stars 2 in Navy
• 1m woven interfacing (Vlieseline G700)
• 70cm leather strap – 2mm thick x 1 3⁄8" wide
• 20cm leather strap – 2mm thick x 1" wide
• 110cm strong leather thong – 1⁄4" wide
• Piece of soft leather for toggle – 1 1⁄4" x 2 1⁄4"
• 2 pieces of soft leather for tassels – 2" x 2 1⁄4"
• 2 Clover D-rings – 1 1⁄4"
• 2 Hemline swivel clips – 1 1⁄2"
• 12 Hemline 10mm eyelets
• 6 double cap rivets 9 x 8mm
• Gütermann HT2 textile glue
• Cotton thread
TOOLS REQUIRED: Sewing machine and usual sewing supplies, rotary cutter, safety ruler and cutting mat, 3mm hole punch, rivet setting tool, hammer, 2 large binder clips.
GOOD TO KNOW
• Construction seams are 1⁄2" unless specified.
• Be sure to backstitch to secure your stitching.
• With lots of pieces and supplies in this project it can be a good idea to label them so you can easily keep track.
• Finished size 12" x 10" x 5"
• Read through the instructions in full before starting.
TO CUT
Main fabric:
– Cut 2, 16" x 16"
– Cut 1, 7" x 9"
Lining fabric:
– Cut 2, 16" x 16"
– Cut 1, 7" x 9"
Woven interfacing:
– Cut 4, 15" x 15"
TO SEW
1. From both your main fabric and lining fabric cut a 2 1⁄2" square out of the two bottom corners. Repeat with the four pieces of interfacing.
2. Fuse the woven interfacing to the wrong side of the both the main fabric and lining pieces. The interfacing is sized so that there should be a 1⁄2" gap all the way around the edge.
3 For the pocket, place the two 7" x 9" squares right sides facing together, pin around edge and then sew together leaving a 4" turning gap in the bottom edge. Clip the corners.
4. Turn the pocket piece the right way out through the turning gap. Push the corners out and give it a good press, tucking in the seam allowance of the turning gap. Topstitch along the top only, 1⁄4" from the edge. Because you are stitching through several layers of fabric your topstitching will look neater if you increase your stitch length, I like to use a 3mm stitch for topstitching.
5. Place the pocket on to the right side of one lining piece with the main fabric facing up, positioning in the centre, 5" down from the top edge, pin in place. Sew in place close to the edge of the pocket, starting at the top edge and sewing around the side, bottom edge and other side, this will close your turning gap at the same time.
6. Place the main fabric pieces, right sides facing together, pin and then sew along the two sides and the bottom edge, leaving the top edge and the cut out corners open. Repeat for the lining pieces, however in the lining be sure to leave a turning gap in the bottom edge of around 5".
7. Press seam allowances open. Open out the bag sections so that you can bring the edges of the cut out corners together. Align the side seam and the bottom seam and then sew across the cut edge to close the corner and box the bag. Do this for both corners on the outer and both corners on the lining.
8. Turn the lining the right way out and slip it down inside the outer, so that the right sides are facing. Pin together around the top edge, ensuring the side seams and raw edges are aligned.
9. Sew around the top edge of the bag. Turn the bag the right way out through the turning gap left in the bottom of the lining. Press well, taking your time to get the seam on the top edge sitting evenly before topstitching all the way around the top at 1 ⁄4" from the edge. Close the turning gap in the base of the lining either by hand with a whipstitch or topstitch on the machine.
10. Mark the placement of the 12 eyelets. There will be six on each side of the bag, placed 1⁄4" down from the top edge. Start at one of the side seams and mark the position of the first eyelet which is 1 1⁄4" in from the side seam. Then mark the next four eyelets at regular intervals of 2 1⁄2" and then the final sixth eyelet should be 2 1⁄2" from the last and 1 1⁄4" from the other side seam. Repeat on the other side of the bag.
11. The eyelets usually come with their own hole punching tool. Follow the manufacturers’ instructions to punch the holes and insert the eyelets. You may find because of the thickness of your layers of fabric, the tool will not punch a hole. In this case use the tool to make an indentation on the bag where you require the hole and use some very sharp snips to cut out the small circle. Take care to only cut the hole just big enough.
12. Cut the 20cm piece of leather strap in half. On each of the two 10cm pieces of leather strapping make a hole 1⁄2" in from each end using the 3mm hole punch and hammer. It is best to use an old cutting mat to save damage to your fabric cutting mat.
13. Make a hole through the bag 1" down from the top edge just next to the side seam. It needs to be just large enough for the shank of the rivet to pass through (a large nail hammer and old cutting mat are useful in making the hole). Put a rivet through one of the holes in the leather strap, then push the rivet through all the layers of the bag from the outside. Slide a D-ring onto the leather, bring the free end of the leather around to the inside of the bag and over the rivet and finally pop a rivet cap on the end of the rivet. Secure with a rivet setting tool. Repeat for the other side of the bag.
14. Thread the 1⁄4" leather thong through the eyelets. Take the piece of 1 1⁄4" x 2 3⁄4" soft leather for the toggle and fold the short ends in to the centre, overlapping them by around 1⁄4". Sew down the centre of the toggle several times to secure and create two channels. Thread the ends of the leather thong through the channels on the toggle.
15. Take the two pieces of soft leather for tassels 2" x 2 3⁄4". Make slices into them, 1 1⁄2"
long, spaced 1⁄4" apart. Then using the HT2 fabric glue roll them around the end of the leather thong and use a large clip to hold in place until dry.
16. Using the 3mm hole punch make two holes in each the end of the large leather strap, spacing them 1⁄2" from the end and 1⁄4" in from each side. Make two more holes at each end, 2" from the end and 1⁄4" in from each side.
17. Take one end of the strap and place it through a swivel clip and secure with two rivets through the holes, using the rivet setting tool as before. Repeat for the other end of the strap and remaining swivel clip.
18. Clip the completed strap onto the D-rings to finish the bag. You could always make a shorter strap if you prefer to carry your bag by hand rather than on your shoulder, or a longer one if you like to wear your bag across your body.
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