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Swimming Tote Bag Tutorial

Swimming Tote Bag Tutorial

Durable and versatile this tote is large enough to accommodate towels, snacks and even a pair of trainers. The water-resistant straps wrap around from the bottom for extra support and are long enough to carry over your shoulder. The laminated cotton fabric helps keep belongings dry, making this the perfect multi–purpose bag for sport activities or days out.

 MATERIALS

• ⅜ yard (34cm), 54" (137cm) wide laminated cotton, for exterior
• 1 yard (91cm) quilting cotton for lining
•  1⁄3 yard (30cm) quilting cotton for pocket
• ⅜ yard (34cm) foam interfacing, 58" (147cm) wide
• ¾ yard woven fusible interfacing, 20" (51cm) wide or  1⁄3 yard (30cm), 44" (112cm) wide
 • 1⁄3 yard (30cm), ⅜" (95mm) wide elastic 
• 1½ yards (137cm), ½" (1cm) wide double-fold binding 
• 2½ yards (229cm), 1"-1½" (2.5cm-3.8cm) wide nylon webbing 

 GOOD TO KNOW

• Finished tote size is approx. 17½" (44cm) wide at bottom, 20½"
(53cm) wide at top, 11¼" (29cm) high and  6" (15cm) deep.
• Fabric measurements are based on 42" (107cm) width of fabric 
unless stated otherwise.
• All seam allowances are ¼" (5mm) unless stated otherwise.
• When using laminated cotton, use clips or pin only in the seam
allowances. Finger-press or if necessary, iron on the wrong side, 
on low heat only, using a pressing cloth.

TO CUT 

Exterior fabric:
–  Cut 2 rectangles, 27" × 14½" (69cm x 37cm)
Foam interfacing:
–  Cut 2 rectangles, 27" × 14½" (69cm x 37cm)
Lining:
–  Cut 1 rectangle 29" × 14½" (74cm x 37cm). Subcut into 3 pieces: 1
rectangle 15" × 14½" (38cm x 37cm) and 2 rectangles 6½" × 14½" (16cm x 37cm). This half will be trimmed to size after attaching an in-seam pocket.
–  Cut 1 rectangle 27" × 14½" (69cm x 37cm)
Pocket:
–  Cut 2 rectangles 10" × 21" (25cm x  53cm)
Woven fusible interfacing:
–  Cut 1 rectangle 10" × 21" (25cm x  53cm)
Webbing:
–  Cut into 2 equal-length pieces 

TO SEW

1.  Take the 27" × 14½" (69cm x 37cm) pieces of exterior fabric, foam interfacing and lining. On each piece angle a ruler from the top corner to 1½" (4cm) in at the bottom corner and cut the side at an angle. Repeat on the opposite side. Cut 1 square 3" × 3" (8cm x 8cm) from each bottom corner. 

2.  Fuse the woven fusible interfacing to the wrong side of one of the pocket pieces. 

3.  Match the interfaced and none interfaced pocket pieces, right sides together, and sew the top edge. Press the seam allowance open. Press the pocket flat, wrong sides together. 

4.  Baste the lower edge of the pocket and finish the seam allowance with a serger, mock overlock stitch, or zigzag stitch close to the raw edge. 

5.  Topstitch close to the top edge of the pocket and again ⅝" (1.5cm) below the top line of stitching.

6.  Mark the centre of the pocket at the lower edge.

7.  Sew two parallel rows of gathering stitches within the seam allowance of the lower edge of the pocket.

8.  Measure and mark a line 4" (10cm) up from the lower edge on the right side of the 15" × 14½" (38cm x 37cm) lining rectangle. Mark the centre of the lining. Centre the lower edge of the pocket, wrong (none interfaced) side up on the mark. The top edge of the pocket will extend past the lower edge of the lining piece.  

9.  Pin the pocket centre mark to the centre mark on the lining. Pull the gathering stitches until the pocket fits the width of the lining rectangle. Pin. Sew ¼" (5mm) from the lower edge of the pocket. 

10. Press the pocket up, covering the finished edge. 

11.  Use a bodkin or safety pin to insert the elastic through the casing at the top edge of the pocket.

12.  Baste the sides of the pocket and the elastic to the lining rectangle. 

13.  Match a 6½" × 14½" (16cm x 37cm) lining rectangle to the pocket/lining section along the long edges, right sides together. Sew. Press the seam allowances away from the pocket. 

14. Repeat the previous step with the opposite side of the pocket/lining section and the remaining 6½"× 14½" (16cm x 37cm) lining rectangle. 

 15. Trim the sides and bottom corners of the assembled pocket/lining piece to match the other lining piece. 

16. Baste a corresponding foam interfacing piece to the wrong side of each lining piece. 

17. Match the lining pieces, right sides together, and pin or clip the sides and bottom. Sew. Press the seams open and trim the foam from the seam allowances if needed.

18. Match the side seam of the lining to the bottom seam to create the bag corners. Pin or clip and sew in a straight line. Repeat with the opposite corner. 

19. Measure 4¾" (12cm) in from the inside edge of the corner at the bottom of a right side up exterior piece. Pin the handle to the exterior, aligning the raw edges.  

Swimming Tote Bag Tutorial

20. Arc the handle up past the top of the exterior and align the remaining raw edge with the bottom of the bag, 4¾" (12cm) in from the inside edge of the opposite corner. Pin.

 21. Stitch the handle to the exterior close to the edges, stopping 9" (23cm) up from bottom. Pivot to sew across the handle, pivot again, and continue sewing to the bottom. 

22. Repeat steps 19-21 with the remaining handle and exterior.  23Repeat steps 17 and 18 to assemble the exterior. Turn the exterior right side out. 

24. Place the lining inside the exterior, wrong sides together. Match and clip or pin the top edges, aligning the side seams. Baste all the way around the top edge. 

25. Measure the top of the tote, add ½" (1cm) for the seam allowance, and cut the binding to fit.  

26. Match the short edges of the binding and sew. Press open the seam allowance. 

27. Unfold the binding. Match the right side of the binding against the right side of the lining. Clip and sew. 

28. Fold the binding over the top edge of the tote, folding the raw edge to the inside. Clip and sew close to the bottom folded edge of the binding.

Swimming Tote Bag Tutorial

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