The Perfect Cargo Bag! This Is A Beginner Friendly Cargo Bag Sewing Tutorial.
BAG FINISHED SIZE: 112 x 72 x 2". Use a ¼" seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated
FQ – fat quarter F8th – fat eighth.
MATERIALS
◆ 40cm Canyon Sunset Solid Textured Denim from the Denim Studio (heavier denim)
◆ 70cm Legendary Femme Metal Bold co-ordinating lining fabric
◆ 50cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding
◆ F8th Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing
◆ 80cm Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing
◆ 60cm Prym heavy duty double-opening plastic zipper
◆ 18cm Prym heavy duty black plastic zipper
◆ 16cm Prym heavy duty black plastic zipper
◆ black 30mm Prym webbing
◆ 30mm Prym silver rectangle rings
◆ 30mm Prym silver bag slider
◆ fray stopper
◆ label for the front (optional)
◆ faux leather or ribbon for zipper pull (optional)
◆ templates (DOWNLOAD PDF HERE)
CUTTING
From denim, cut:
front pocket front outer panel (Template 1)
2 main front and back outer panels (Template 2)
2 4x22cm front pocket zipper panel outers
7x47cm front pocket outer base gusset
2 5.5x45cm top zipper outer panels
10x43cm outer base gusset panel
From lining, cut:
front pocket front lining (Template 1)
2 front pocket zipper panel linings
7x47cm front pocket base gusset lining
19x25cm front pocket zipper box pocket lining
front pocket back lining (Template 1)
2 main linings front and back (Template 2)
2 5.5x45cm rectangles for top zipper panel linings
10x43cm rectangle for main base gusset panel lining
4 12x20cm rectangles for inner slip pocket pieces
2 11x15cm rectangles for front pocket slip pocket
2.4m bias binding for inner seams
From webbing, cut:
120cm-long for main strap
2 8cm-long gusset tabs
From H630 fusible wadding, cut:
Use the same templates and measurements as for bag where no
template is used and then trim 0.5cm away to keep the interfacing out of the seams. This reduces bulk and makes sewing easier.
Front pocket front panel (Template I) 2 4x22cm front pocket zipper panel outers 7x47cm front pocket outer base gusset 2 main front and back outer panels (template) 2 5.5x45cm top zipper outer panels 10x43cm outer base gusset panel
From S320 fusible interfacing, cut:
2 10x18cm rectangles for main slip pockets 9x13cm rectangle front section slip pocket. Once you have stitched the irst block (following the instructions overleaf) and you are happy with your colour combinations, follow each cutting instruction 29 more times.
ASSEMBLY
1. Make side tabs for the main strap by folding the webbing in half and enclosing a rectangle ring into each. Stitch closed. Combat any fraying using some fray stopper. Treat the ends of the main strap with the fray stopper too and stitch one end to the middle bar of the bag slider.
2. Fuse H630 to all of the outer denim panels remembering to trim it back as directed above to keep the bulk out of the seam allowance.
3. Make the front zipper box pocket next. Shorten the 16cm zipper to 14cm. To shorten, sew across the non-opening end a few times (hand sewing is better with a heavy duty zip rather than using a machine) and then cut the excess of. This also removes the rather clunky stopper that was there originally.
4. Find the vertical centres of both the front outer denim panel and the zipper box pocket lining. Measure down 3.5cm from the top edge of the front pocket panel and make a series of horizontal marks. With the right sides together, line the two vertical centres up and pin one short end of the lining to the denim outer.
5. Measure down 2cm on the lining itself and mark a horizontal box 1cm deep and 14cm long. This is the sewing line. Down the middle of this box, also working horizontally, mark a second line with angles at either end. This is the cutting line. (See Pic A.)
6. Sew around the sewing line and cut along the cutting line and ‘post’ the lining through the gap. Smooth out on the back and top-stitch the shortened 16cm zipper into the space. (See Pic B.)
7. Complete the pocket by bringing the other short end to meet the first and sewing the sides and top of the pocket. Add your label if you are using one centrally just under the zipper box pocket. Lay this panel onto some slightly larger foam interfacing and attach. Trim the foam back. With the wrong sides together, baste the lining to the back of the pocket front.
8. To make the top zipper, use the 18cm zipper and the panels cut for this part of the bag. Make a sandwich with a zipper outer panel and a zipper lining panel and the zipper in between. (See Pic C.)
Sew along the zip, lip it over and top-stitch. Repeat for the other side.
9. Take an interfaced outer gusset and a lining piece, and make a sandwich on the end of the zip with the right sides facing. (See Pic D.) Sew across and lip it over before top-stitching. Fit the gusset and then trim before sewing the other end of the zip. Repeat for the other end of the zip.
10. Attach the front of the pocket to the gusset. Use bias binding inside to cover the raw edges. (See Pic E.)
11. For the slip pockets, they are each made in the same way so make them together and they will be ready for the main lining. Fuse the S320 interfacing centrally to the wrong side of one of the slip pocket panels. This will be the outer and the interfacing is the actual finished size of the pocket.
12. Place apiece without interfacing and the interfaced outer right sides facing, then sew all around the very edge of the interfacing (see Pic F), leaving a turning gap in the base. Clip across the corners and turn out through the gap in the base. Press the pocket so that the edges are perfect and the pocket is ready to use. Attach the slip pockets in each case with a narrow topstitch. The front section slip pocket is sited centrally onto the rear lining 4cm down from the top edge of the lining panel.
13. The internal slip pockets are also sited centrally 6cm down from the top and attached with a narrow topstitch. Because they can gape due to their larger size, divide them up with vertical seams.
14. Take the main front panel and site the back lining of the front pocket onto it 1.5cm up from the bottom and in the dead centre, attach with a machine basting stitch (See Pic G.)
15. Take the front pocket and turn it over to look at the raw seams at the back. Turn these under by 0.5cm and press them. Repeat with the lining so that you have a nice edge. (See Pic H.)
16. A thin bead of fabric glue can help to keep layers together while you work. I like to carefully trim the foam back here too to make it easier to make a perfect edge. When you are happy, site the pocket over the basted section on the back and topstitch right around twice, covering the raw edge of the pocket back. (See Pic I.)
17. Attach the back panel to the foam interfacing and trim. Attach the inner slip pockets to the lining panels as directed if you have not already done so. Make up the gusset for the main zipper exactly as you did for the front pocket.
18. For the main gusset, shorten the main zipper to 40cm and add a tab with a rectangle ring at each end of the zipper. (See Pic J.) Trim the panel to 10x42cm.
19. Attach the itted gusset to the front and back of the bag as you did before, trimming it as needed. Have the zipper open for this so that you can turn the bag the right way out once you are finished.
20. Bind the inner raw edges and attach the main strap by taking the free end through the rectangle rings on one side of the bag, back through the bag slider and attach it at the other rectangle ring.
21. Decorate the zipper pulls with your chosen embellishment to finish.
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