Drawstring Handbag - Plain or Patchwork. Free Sewing Tutorial. The version we're making is the above, but if you want to make yours patchworky--
--I'll tell you how big to cut your squares so the measurements work out the same.
The best part is that this bag is indeed quite simple and will give you some skills you can incorporate into other creations. Also--no pattern pieces. We're working with all rectangles and squares.
You're going to need:
- 1/2 yard of focus fabric for the outside panel and the inside pockets (because contrast is fun). If you're making it patchworky, you will need a total of 42 pieces that are 3 inches square, plus some larger pieces to use for the inside pockets. I'm using quilt-weight cotton.
- 1 yard of contrast fabric for the lining, straps, drawstring, and the contrast pieces on the top and bottom of the outside of the bag. Again, I'm using quilt-weight cotton.
- 2/3 yard of 45 inch wide fusible fleece (I use Thermolam Fusible, but use what you can get your mitts on)
- 1 yard of 20 inch wide woven fusible interfacing. If you can only get the craft weight of interfacing that will work OK too--just don't get one that's too heavy. Also--if you're using a heavier weight fabric you can omit this.
- a nine inch zipper to match the lining (or to contrast with it, because that's nifty looking)
- four rings that will hold a 1 1/4 inch strap
- one magnetic snap
- #8 3/8" inch grommets and tools to insert them. I am using a pair of grommet pliers, but the grommet tool that you whack with a hammer works just as well. I don't have that so I won't be able to show you but everything else will apply, and the directions are usually on the package.
- a gridded bag bottom (I use a piece of plastic canvas--you can get a couple bottoms from one piece).
- basic sewing stuff: coordinating thread, scissors, pins, hand sewing needle, something to mark with, seam ripper, ruler
It finishes up at about 12 inches wide, about 10 inches high, and 5 inches deep.
From your main fabric, cut:
Two pieces that are each 18 inches by 8 inches (be careful if it's directional fabric)
One piece that is 10 by 12 inches (for the inside zipper pocket)
Two pieces that are each 5 by 9 inches (for the inside slip pocket)
** If you're making the patchwork version cut 42 squares that are each 3 inches square. Sew them together 7 squares across and 3 squares high with a quarter inch seam allowance, pressing the seams open. You should end up with a piece that is 18 by 8 inches when pressed nice and smooth. **
For your lining fabric, fold it so that the selvages meet and the raw edges are on the sides. Then cut the following:
Two pieces that are each 5 inches wide by the width of the fabric (for our straps and tabs)
Two pieces that are each 2 inches by the width of the fabric (for the drawstring)
Two pieces that are each 18 inches by 13 inches (for the lining)
Four pieces that are each 18 inches by 3 inches (for the top and bottom bands)
Here's a view of how I laid out my cuts for the contrast/lining. Those pieces that have the rings on them were cut off the ends of the strap pieces (we'll get to that soon--I took the picture after I made the cut) but if you've got your yardage folded as I suggested you can get all your pieces cut out like the above.
From your woven interfacing cut:
Two pieces that are each 18 inches by 13 inches
Four pieces that are each 2.5 inches by 4 inches (for strengthening our tabs)
From your fusible fleece cut:
Two pieces that are each 18 inches by 13 inches
Two pieces that are each 2.5 inches by 29 inches
You'll have some scraps--save those. We'll be using them.
Please note a few things: you must backstitch at the beginning and end of every seam, otherwise your pieces will start to fall apart; I'll tell you the seam allowances as we move along as they vary here and there; and you should read through the directions before you sew (as with any pattern).
Make the Outside Panels
Since fusible interfacing needs time to set after ironing (especially the fleece--not so much the other stuff) we're going to make the outside panels first so we can fuse them and set them aside for a bit (just in case you thought I was losing my mind and going crazy out of order on purpose :)
1. Take an outside piece, whether it's plain or patchwork, and two of the contrast bands. With right sides together, sew one to the top (along the 18-inch edge) and one to the bottom using a quarter inch seam allowance. Press your seams open.
2. Once you have that, take your woven interfacing (or craft-weight if that's what you're using) and fuse it to the wrong side. Let that cool while you repeat the process for the other outside pieces.
3. Once you have that done, take your fusible fleece and fuse it to the wrong side of the outside pieces (right on top of the woven/craft you just fused down). Make sure you get a nice good press around the edges. Set those aside to cool, and we'll work on the straps.
Make the Strap Tabs
1. Take one of the pieces you cut for your strap. Trim the selvage if necessary. Cut two pieces off the edge, each four inches long (don't cut the folded edge!!). Do the same to the other long strap piece. You should have two longer pieces and 4 short pieces.
2. Take those four pieces and iron them in half so that the five inch edges are touching. Unfold, then press the edges towards the center fold (just like making bias tape).
3. Down the center of each piece (using your folds as a guide) iron your little fusible interfacing pieces you cut.
4. Press again along your original folds (they may have flattened a bit during the fusing). You should have four pieces that are each 1.25 inches wide by 4 inches long.
5. Now we stitch (those raw ends will be buried in the bag so don't worry about them). You need to stitch as close to each edge as you feel comfortable--I find that 1/8 inch is usually doable for most people. I added a few extra rows of stitching because I like the effect--you can do the same or leave it out. Just make sure you stitch the same distance from each edge.
6. Grab your rings. Feed the tab through and pin the raw edges together. Then sew a little less than a quarter inch from the edge. You should now have four strap tabs. Set them aside but not too far aside :)
Make the Straps
1. Take those 2 long pieces you have left after cutting off your tabs. Trim them so that they are each twenty-nine inches long. Fold in each raw edge (the short ones) about a half-inch (we need to conceal those raw edges).
2. Now fold those long edges together and press down the center (as we did for the tabs). Then fold the edges towards the center fold and press again.
3. Take one of the fleece pieces and line it up down the center, making sure the edges are tucked under the fold (you'll have to trim one of the edges, but keep the scraps of fleece you trim!).
4. Fuse it in place--I usually do this by folding my fabric back in place and pressing, and then flipping the whole thing over and pressing to get a really good bond.
5. Press back in half so you have a piece that is 1.25 inches wide by about 28 inches long.
6. Hop back over to your machine and mimic the stitching you did on your tabs, whether it's just stitching on the edges, or adding a few extra rows. I did not sew around the perimeter of my straps--I simply went from end to end.
7. Get your tabs and rings. We're going to attach the straps now. Feed one end through the ring, and fold it up two inches. Pin it in place.
8. Sew a nice boxy stitch to keep it all secure. This is kind of thick, so take your time and adjust if you need to.
9. Repeat for the other end. Make sure the strap isn't twisted and the folded edges are facing the same way. Repeat for the other strap.
All of your pieces should be cut out. It helps to label pieces if you might lose track of what's what.
We've got our two outside panels stitched and fused.
We've attached our tabs, rings, and straps.
So get your lining pieces, your pieces for your slip pocket, and your piece for your zipper pocket. Oh, and the zipper :) We'll do that first, so take a few deep breaths if you're feeling nervous. But I promise--though it doesn't look it this is one of the easier zippers to install.
Make the Inside Zipper Pocket
1. Center your pocket piece on the lining piece, right sides together. Place the top edge of the pocket piece three inches down from the top center of the lining. Make sure it's centered and straight.
2. Draw a line across the top of the pocket piece 3/4 inch from the top edge, and starting/ending one inch from each side edge. Draw a parallel line 3/8 inch down from this first line. Draw some edges so you have a long skinny rectangle. Draw one more line cutting this rectangle in half longways. Draw the little lines you see in the second picture below from each corner towards the middle line (they make the little triangles you see) - I make mine about 3/4 inch long.
3. Pin in place around the rectangle, then sew around the outside of the rectangle.
4. Now carefully cut along the center line from triangle point to triangle point. Use a seam ripper to get started, then switch to scissors. When you get to the triangle tips, go out to the corners, getting as close as you can to the stitches without cutting them.
5. Pull the pocket piece (all of it) through the slit you just made. It will now be on the wrong side of the lining, and look quite messy. This is where you press it into submission so that you get some nice neat corners and a delightful rectangular slit.
6. OK, get your zipper - don't get nervous now, you already did the hard part :) Lay it down right side up and center the slit over it. If your zipper is going to need trimming later you need to make sure your pull is within the slit so you don't sew off access to it. Put a few pins in to hold it in place - you want it to be centered between the top and bottom so that you're sure to grab the entire zipper tape.
Note: I was using the end of a zipper from another project, and a pull from another zipper, hence the mismatch.
7. Now stitch about 1/8 an inch from the edge. I don't use my zipper foot - I just put the zipper towards the left of my foot and sew, using the coils of the zipper itself as a seam guide. Pivot at the corners and keep going all the way around. You may need to move your zipper pull out of the way at some point. I only pin the top edge to get started - when I turn to come back along the bottom I keep everything positioned with my fingers because that works better than pins (for me) for this part at keeping things straight. Do what feels comfortable for you. If you like a zipper foot use it. If you like lots of pins, pin away.
Check the back to make sure you caught all of the zipper tape. If you missed anything restitch.
8. Fold the bottom edge of the pocket up to meet the top edge. Pin and stitch (1/4 inch seam). Make sure you have the lining tucked out of the way of the needle and that you're just stitching the pocket. Then pin and stitch the sides. Be careful of any metal zipper bits that might break a needle. Trim any excess zipper if you need to. Give it a final press (and then peek inside at your lovely new zipper pocket).
Make the Slip Pocket
1. Take your two pieces and slap them together right sides facing. Sew around the perimeter with a quarter inch seam, leaving a gap for turning along the bottom. Trim the corners diagonally to cut down on the bulk.
2. Turn it right side out through the gap. Poke out the corners. Tuck in your raw edges and press the whole thing.
3. Center your pocket on your remaining lining piece three inches down from the top edge. Make sure the gap you left open is towards the bottom. Pin it in place.
4. We're going to sew close to the edge of the pocket around the three sides that aren't the top (obviously, or we couldn't put things in it). BUT we're going to sew about three stitches at each top edge near the corner. And then we're going to reverse, go forward, reverse, etc. a few times--this keeps the pocket edge nice and secure, and keeps it form pulling away from the lining. Then, pivot, go down the side, across the bottom (closing the gap at the same time), up the other side, and at the top edge do the same three-stitch maneuver again.
5. Draw a line up the center of the pocket. Starting from the bottom, stitch towards the top. When you get to the top, pivot and then go forward and back a few times to secure that part of the pocket.
So now we've got our two lining pieces with pockets in each--one slip, one zip.
Insert the Magnetic Snap
Before I start I just want to say that this is how I insert my mag snaps. Some of you may shudder and twitch as I don't follow the directions on the package as I've had snaps come loose that way. But ever since I've done them 'my' way I haven't had any issues. So, yes, this is different from other methods you may have seen, but it works.
1. Cut two pieces from the scraps of fusible fleece I had you save when we did the straps. Make them about 1.5 inches by the width of your scrap. On the wrong side of each lining piece, make a mark two inches down from the center. Iron your fleece over those marks (this gives some security as a snap can be quite the stress point).
2. Place your lining pieces right sides together and pin around the edges to keep it stable. Take one of your washers (the holes are very handy marking places). Place it two inches down from the top center. Make markings in the slits.
Note: I'm doing this on the fabric side instead of the fleece as the markings are easier to see in photos.
3. Take your seam ripper, and verrrrrrry carefully make two slits that correspond with your markings. Go through all the layers, but be careful not to slice too much. Doing it this way ensures that your snap will line up properly. You can take out your pins now.
4. Take one of your mag snap pieces, and poke the prongs through the slits you cut so that the snap shows on the right side of the lining and the prongs are poking through to the wrong side. Put your washer over the prongs.
5. Instead of pushing the prongs away from each other, I push them towards each other, i.e. over the center of the snap. Use a scrap of fabric (so you don't scratch the snap) and some pliers to get a nice firm squeeze.
6. Cut another scrap of fusible fleece, and lay it down over back of the snap. You may need a pin or two, but do it from the right side of the lining so you don't sew over them.
7. Go to your sewing machine. Place this right side up with your presser foot touching the edge of the snap. Sew a nice neat square around the snap. This keeps everything secure and cuts down on a lot of the stress on the lining.
8. Repeat for the other side of the snap and lining. You can trim some of the excess fleece if you like, but it's not necessary.
Make Up the Lining
1. Place your lining pieces right sides together (you can click the snap shut if you want :) Sew the bottom seam with a 1/4 inch allowance, leaving about a six inch gap in the middle for turning. Press that seam open. Sew your side seams (1/4 inch seam), and then press those open.
Now we're going to create a flat bottom for the bag by boxing the corners. This is what will give our bag some dimension.
2. Stick your hand in the bag and push the corner out and flatten to create a triangle. You can take a peek inside the bag to make sure the side seam and bottom seam are lined up one on top of the other (this takes a little wiggling).
Inside view of how your seams should stack up.
3. Grab a ruler and measure a line five inches across. You want the 2.5 inch mark to be directly on the seam line - this may take some maneuvering, but it makes for a nice even bottom. I usually have to play around with it a minute or two to make sure everything is lined up. Once it's all set, put in a few pins to keep it from wiggling out of place. Sew along the line.
4. Repeat with the other corner. Trim off the edge of the triangle about a quarter inch from your seam line. If you turn the lining right side out you'll see that you now have a nice flat bottom.
Alrighty, my dears. Grab the exterior pieces of your bag that have been patiently sitting by, because now it's their turn to get all prettied up. We're going to start off by inserting the grommets. I'm using grommet pliers, but the tools and a hammer work just as well (I just find that the people around me get annoyed with the banging, for some reason). Remember if you're using the hammer and tools to protect your work surface! OK, let's get moving.
Insert the Grommets
1. Grab a ruler and something to mark with. All of our markings are going to be made 1.25 inches above the seam line that connects the top band with the main panel. You're going to make four markings on both exterior pieces. Make one 2.5 inches from the edge, and another 4.25 inches from that mark (NOT from the edge). Use the same measurements to mark from the other edge. Repeat for the other outside piece.
I like to center my grommet over the marking and trace the circle as a snip guide.
2. Take your seam ripper and insert it on one side of your circle, coming out the other side. Make a clean slice with it.
3. Use your scissors to trim that little circle. It's better to start small and go bigger if you need to, as you can't put back what you've cut off. Snip until the grommet fits through the hole. You want to poke it through to the back, so the flat part is against the front of the bag, and the other part is sticking through the back.
4. Take some of those fusible fleece scraps and cut them about 2 inches square (you'll need 8 total). Cut a hole in the center and place it over the part sticking up in the photo above--this is giving us a double layer of fleece so that our grommet will really be stuck down firmly.
5. Put the washer over the grommet end, and use either your grommet pliers or your tools to get it firmly in place. It should not be able to wiggle around at all if you've got it in good.
From the outside.
From the inside. Trim down some of that excess fleece.
6. Repeat for all of your grommet markings. Make sure you've got the 'working side' on the wrong side, and the business end looking nice and pretty on the outside.
Make Up the Outer Bag
1. This will be very familiar as it's almost exactly how we assembled the lining. Line up your pieces, right sides together, and sew all the way across the bottom using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Press that seam open. Sew up each side, and press those seams open as well.
2. Create the flat bottom for your bag using the same exact steps used for the lining. Due to the bottom band being in the contrast fabric, it makes it look like we've inserted a separate bottom piece.
3. Now we're going to make the bottom of our bag nice and sturdy, and anti-sag by inserting a bag bottom into it. Turn your bag inside out. Measure the bottom seam and knock about a quarter inch off the measurement. We know our flat bottom is five inches deep, so knock a quarter inch off that as well. If your stitching matches mine you'll need a piece of plastic that's 11.75 by 4.75 inches. Cut that piece out now.
4. To keep the plastic from sliding up the sides of your bag we're going to sew some stitches through it into the seams. Thread a needle, tie a knot, and tack it on down. I stitched the center of the piece of plastic through the seam a few times. It doesn't need to be super sturdy--we're just trying to keep it from shifting.
It should look like this when you're finished:
Turn it right side out. You should have a nice flat-bottomed bag exterior with grommets along the top.
5. NOW grab those straps, those straps that have been waiting so patiently. Measure in 4.25 inches from the side seams, and pin/clip your straps in place. You'll want to make sure the piece that we folded and sewed when making the strap is facing up.
6. Stitch it down about 1/4 inch from the top edge. I like to go over these a few times to make sure the straps are secure as that's a major stress point in a bag. Repeat for the remainder of your strap ends, taking care not to get them all twisted.
Make the Drawstring
1. You should have two long, narrow pieces left at this point. We're going to sew them together as though we're making bias tape so there's no bulk. So take those pieces, and lay them perpendicular to each other, right sides facing (unless you're using a solid, and then it doesn't matter). Draw a line as shown in the picture below, then sew on that line.
2. Trim that down to about 1/4 inch seam allowance, unfold, and press the seam open.
3. Trim the strip so that it measures 54 inches (with your seam in the middle).
4. Remember how on our straps we folded in our short ends to hide the raw edges? Do that again--press in the short edges about 1/2 inch each.
5. Now we fold it in half along that loooong edge and press. Unfold, and press the raw edges towards the center fold. Then fold and press in half again.
6. Trot on back to your sewing machine, sew around the perimeter of your drawstring, about 1/8 inch from the edge.
I picked out those wayward stitches after the photo was taken :)
Insert the Drawstring
1. Figure out which side is the front of your bag, as this will be where our ends will be.
2. Take one end and feed it through your grommets, starting with one of the more central grommets, and feeding it in and out, around the bag, coming out next to the grommet where you started. If you goof this up just pull it out and redo it.
Here's what the outside looks like at this point.
Finish It
1. Take your exterior bag, and slide it inside your lining so that the right sides are facing. Fiddle with it so your seams match, and pin everything in place. Make sure your straps and drawstrings are in between the two layers and out of the way of your stitches.
2. Sew around the top using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Carefully reach through the gap in the lining and pull everything out so that the yucky parts are hidden, and all you see is your beautiful bag and the lining. Gently poke out the corners so they're nice and crisp.
3. Stitch the gap in the lining shut, then push it down into the bag, neatening everything up.
4. Neaten up the top edge (I use pins or clips to keep it in place) and topstitch about 1/4 inch from the top edge, going all the way around. Watch out for the drawstring. It'll want to get in the way.
5. Trim any dangling threads, give it a press, and tie your drawstring into a bow. You have finished, my dears.
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