How to Sew a Zipper Pouch (3 sizes pattern) ~ Free-Tutorial.net

These delicate little pouches are incredibly quick to sew. They consist of just two rectangles (lining and outer fabric plus batting), a half continuous zipper with a slider, and a piece of webbing.

The special thing about them is that the pouches only have seams on three sides. The fourth side is the fold of the fabric, so a half continuous zipper can be sewn in in one piece, and the slider can be attached to the folded zipper. This eliminates a messy zipper corner, cutting, and seams, making it incredibly fast!

The free pattern includes very detailed photo instructions, suitable even for sewing beginners or those new to bags and zippers. It also includes templates for pouches in three sizes: a diaper pouch (approx. 25 x 19 cm), a pencil case (approx. 19 x 11 cm), and a mini pouch (approx. 11 x 9 cm).

You can download it HERE.

The diaper bag has room for about 2-3 diapers up to size 5 and a small pack of wipes. I've also extensively tested it as a toiletry bag for a toothbrush, cosmetics, and other essentials when I'm out and about.

With this pencil case, you have everything you need for taking notes and sketching readily available in all situations. Great for school and work, too.

The mini bag is always with you and is the ideal place to store your "emergency fund" or pocket money.

I absolutely love little pouches, but I really don't love sewing them. That's why I developed this technique to save time on cutting, seams, and fiddling with zippers. They're also great as "take-away items" for craft markets; quickly sewn from fabric scraps, they easily complement any assortment with a relatively inexpensive item and a reasonable profit margin.

These delicate little pouches can be sewn in a flash with just a few supplies. Simple yet elegant, they make the perfect little gift or even a lovely present for anyone!

Each pouch consists of a long rectangle of (reinforced) outer fabric and a lining, with a half-length continuous zipper sewn between them. After threading the zipper pull, you just need to sew three sides together, and you're almost done! This technique saves you time, frustration, and an unsightly zipper corner.

Have fun making them!

... You will need:

• Outer fabric, lining fabric, and fusible fleece (e.g., Vlieseline H630)
in the following dimensions (height x width):

Diaper bag: 20cm x 55cm
Pencil case: 12cm x 40cm
Mini bag: 10cm x 25cm

• A length of zipper tape, using only half the zipper for each bag. One length is sufficient for two bags of the same size:

Diaper bag: 60cm
Pencil case: 50cm
Mini bag: 30cm

• One zipper pull per bag

• Optionally, a 10-12cm length of narrow webbing and a lighter for fusing the edges

• Matching sewing thread

The pattern already includes a 5mm seam allowance (dotted area).

``` If you want to add your own seam allowance, you can also cut out the pattern without this area.

Print the desired bag size. In the printer menu, select "no adjustments" or "100%". Measure the control box to check if you printed correctly.

Now cut out the pattern.

You will need outer fabric, (iron-on) fusible fleece, lining fabric, a continuous zipper, and a matching slider.

Now cut out the bag as shown in the pattern, on the fold of the fabric. To do this, place the fabric right sides together, aligning the pattern along the fold line (fabric fold)...

...and cut directly around the pattern, since a seam allowance of 0.5cm is already included.

Repeat the process for the volume fleece...

...and the lining fabric.

Now iron the interfacing (here my favorite, Vlieseline H630) onto the reverse side of the outer fabric according to the manufacturer's instructions. Non-iron interfacing is sewn all around the edge with a zigzag stitch within the 0.5cm seam allowance.

Next, cut a sufficiently long piece from the continuous zipper. It should extend approximately 4-5 cm beyond the long edge of the bag on both sides. Guidelines are 60 cm, 50 cm, and 30 cm for the diaper bag, pencil case, and mini bag, respectively.

Next, divide the zipper into its two halves. You only need one half for your bag.

The zipper is now sewn along the top edge of the bag between the outer fabric and the lining. To do this, the zipper is first positioned with the top side (the side where the coil is clearly visible) facing down along the top edge of the bag.

Ideally, you should secure it here with Stylefix. Apply the narrow adhesive tape along the top edge and adhere the zipper as described, with the top side facing down and flush with the edge.

For the later threading of the slider, it is important that the zipper extends further on one side than on the other.

Now place the lining fabric right sides together on the outer fabric, with the zipper in between.

Pin the three pieces (outer fabric, zipper, lining) together along the top edge. This is where you sew.

To sew close to the zipper and thus neatly in place, there are two options. Either you use a zipper foot that guides the zipper coil with its central tongue and side guide rail...

...or, you can use the normal presser foot, but move the needle to the leftmost position. The edge of the foot will then run precisely along the spiral while sewing. Both methods allow for an optimal distance to the zipper—close, but not so close that the slider can no longer be moved.

Sew along the entire top edge and secure the beginning and end of the seam with a few backstitches.

Your result now looks like this.

Now, fold both the outer fabric and the lining to the other side, so that they are lying wrong sides together. The zipper is in between, with the spiral on the side of the outer fabric.

Make sure both fabrics are folded tightly downwards and iron the top edge. Note: Do not iron too hot or for too long to avoid melting the zipper.

For a particularly neat result, now stitch along the top edge. I maintain a distance of approximately 2-3 mm from the zipper and use a normal straight stitch with a stitch length of approximately 3 mm. Any other stitch is also possible.

This is what the quilted edge looks like.

Now the slider is threaded on. To do this, the bag is folded once before sewing it together, just as it will look when finished: Following the fold line of the fabric from the cut piece, the bag is folded in half lengthwise.

This is how it looks on this bag. Now it comes into play that one protruding end of the zipper is longer and the other is shorter.

Thread the slider onto the longer side on...

...and then place the zipper ends together so that the short sides of the bag are at the same level. Pull the slider down to the level of the shorter end of the zipper. Now thread the short end into the other side of the slider.

Hold the end of the zipper and carefully pull the slider further. It should now grip both sides of the zippers and connect them. Make sure that the short sides of the bag remain aligned.

Pull the slider to about the middle of the bag.

Now secure the ends of the zipper together by sewing back and forth a few times with a straight stitch. Then trim the ends back to about 2 cm.

Now it's time to close the sides of the bag. To do this, as shown in the picture, the outer fabric and lining are pulled apart again and placed right sides together, flush, on both sides of the zipper.

The zipper is folded before being sewn over so that the edges of the outer fabric meet exactly...

...and the folded zipper protrudes into the inner fabric.

Now the open sides of the bag are closed with a straight stitch. A turning opening of approximately 5-8 cm is left in the lining fabric.

Select the straight stitch with a stitch length of approximately 2.5mm and sew, maintaining the seam allowance, at a distance of 5mm from the edge.

When sewing over the zipper, it is advisable to sew back and forth again to reinforce this area.

If you would like to sew in a label or a ribbon flag, place it after the zipper transition, approximately halfway up the short side, between the layers of the outer fabric.

After sewing, it should look something like this. Now trim the corners diagonally. Be careful not to cut the seam. Then find the turning opening...

...and turn the bag inside out.

If you open the RV all the way, you get a Structures of this type. Before you put the inner fabric into the outer fabric and your finished bag admire, you still have to see the corners of the Form outer material.

To do this, insert a narrow, not too pointed object (here a closed craft scissors) through the turning opening and gently push the fabric outwards in the corners until they are completely pointed.

Now close the turning opening. To do this, fold the seam allowance here inwards and align the edges together so that the bottom edge of the inner pocket is straight. Topstitch the opening close to the edge with a straight stitch, securing the beginning and end of the seam.

Now you can insert the lining into the outer fabric. The bag is now almost finished.

The crooked corner where RV begins still needs to be shaped a bit more.

I'm using my closed craft scissors again to very carefully (!) push the zipper tape upwards. I'm starting on the lining fabric, otherwise you can easily puncture the zipper. It's really important that you don't use any sharp, pointed tools, otherwise you'll damage the fabric.

This is how it should look.

The finishing touch for the bag is added when you decorate the slider with a small piece of narrow ribbon (here, star ribbon from Farbenmix). To do this, cut a piece of ribbon about 10-12 cm long, cut the ends at an angle, and carefully melt the edges together with a lighter.

Now fold the ribbon in the middle and thread it through the small opening at the top of the slider, so that you have the ends on one side and a loop on the other.