Zipped Sewing Bag Tutorial ~ Free-Tutorial.net

I hope you like the Zipped Sewing Case that I designed. If you do, here are some instructions on how to make it:

For the outer you will need:

    The pattern (consisting of two pages- template A and template B) When printing the pattern ensure that you print it "actual size". You can download the pattern HERE
    2 strips of quilting weight fabric measuring 3" x 12"
    2 strips of strip Essex Linen measuring 1.5" x 12"
    1 piece quilting weight fabric 7.5x 12"
    (If you prefer a plain outer, feel free to cut a single piece of fabric to template A)
    fusible fleece cut using template A
    heavy weight iron-on interfacing cut 1/4" smaller than template A on all sides

For the inner you will need:

    Lining fabric cut using template A
    Iron-on interfacing cut using template A
    1 piece contrasting fabric (I used Essex linen) cut using template B
    1 piece contrasting fabric measuring 4.5" x 6.5"
    1 piece contrasting fabric measuring 7.5" x 6.5"

You will also need:

    A zip (I used a 55cm zip, but would STRONGLY recommend using a zip at least 5 cm longer)
    2 pieces quilting weight fabric 2.5" x 3"
    2 short pieces of binding

Method:
Cut all your fabrics (Remember to place the fabric on the fold when using template A)

These are the fabrics for the inner of the case

Start with the outer fabrics. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, piece the fabrics in the following order:
3" strip then 1.5" strip then 7.5" strip then 1.5" strip then 3" strip.

Once you have done this, press the seams open and then iron the fusible fleece onto the back of the pieced fabrics.

Now iron the stiff interfacing onto the back of the fusible fleece.

At this point I did a little bit of quilting. To be honest, part of the reason for this was that I didn't trust the stiff iron-on interfacing that I had to stick, but I like the effect that it gave and would not hesitate to do it again.

Once you have done this, cut the outer fabric to the same shape and size as the fusible fleece.

Your outer fabrics are now ready, so lets turn our attention to the lining.

Iron the interfacing onto the back of the lining fabric.

Fold the scissor holder in half lengthways. Sew around the edge, leaving a 2" opening on one of the longer sides. Clip the corners.
Turn the right way out. Make sure that you poke the corners out properly and then iron. If you like, you can do decorative stitching along the top.

Repeat these last steps to create the other two pockets. The smaller pocket should be folded in half creating a piece 4.5" x 3.25". The larger pocket should be folded in half making a piece 7.5" x 3.25".

Position the pockets carefully on the lining fabric. Make sure that you take the contours of the pouch into account and don't place any pockets in positions where the will cross a fold (see diagram below where the red lines represent folds). Note that the lines that I have drawn onto the photo are all approximately a 1/4" away from the obvious joins. This takes seam allowances into account.

When sewing the pockets in place like to sew small triangles at the top, to strengthen them. Then pull the ends to the back and tie them neatly.

Take your zip and place it around the edges of the outer piece.

Ensuring that you have at least 2 or 3cm left at either end of the zip, make a mark on the closed end of the zip. This mark will help you to ensure that the zip is sewn evenly onto both sides of the pouch. Ideally the mark wants to be further away from the end than shown in this photo.

Now open the zip and starting from your mark begin to pin the zip in position. Place the zip and outer right sides together (see the following two photos to help understand what I mean).

When you get to the corners you will need to make three or four short snips in the zip at roughly 1cm intervals. This will help you to ease the zip round the corner.

I tend to pin and then sew one half of the zip first, check it and then sew the other half. Mostly this is personal choice, but it was essential this time as my zip was a bit on the short side which would have made it a bit more awkward to sew.

Once you have pinned the zip to the outer, place the inner on top of it, right side down. This creates a sandwich with the outer layer, then the zip, then the inner layer. Carefully pin again, ensuring that the zip does not move in the process.

Put a zipper foot on your machine and carefully sew around the zip. Do not sew any further than the zip ends, the rectangular indentations need to be left open in order to turn the case the right side out.

Repeat the same steps for the other side of the case and then turn the case the right way out.

Once you have turned the case the right way out, finger press the edges and then top stitch around the zip.

Create two small tabs for at the zip ends. Fold the 2.5" x 3" pieces of fabric in half so that they measure 1.25" x 3". Then fold in the two sides in to the centre again creating a thin strip of fabric. Sew along the long edges.

Fold the zip tab in half lengthways.

Turn the case inside out. Pinch the ends of the case together so the raw edges of all the layers line up at right angles to the zip. Place the folded zip tab in the middle of this bundle (you can just see it poking out of the bottom view photo).

Note: For the closed end of the zip, you can do this step BEFORE you turn the case the right way out. I did, and this is why my case only has binding at one end of the zip. (Refer back to the first photo to see what I mean)

Sew the end of the pouch closed. I like to sew back and forwards a few times to ensure that I have secured the zip properly.

Trim the ends of the zip