This is a beginner friendly pattern so in case you are new to bag making I would like to encourage you to try this pattern. The Pink Peony Bag is a small and simple bag, yet has a lot of interesting features and a fun design. There are three ways to use this purse: It has a long strap so you can wear it over the shoulder. Simply tuck in and hide the strap and you will be able to carry this little purse as a clutch. Or you may use it as a wristlet by simply clipping on the short strap to a D-ring on the flap. The choice is yours!
Finished measurements (approx.): 5 ½” x 9 ½” x 1″ / 14 x 24 x 2.5 cm (height x width x depth)
Pink Peony Bag
Supplies:
Exterior fabric: ¼ yd or 25 cm
Lining fabric: ⅓ yd or 30 cm
Heavy fusible stabilizer e.g. Pellon Peltex 71F: ½ yd or 0.5 m*
Fusible interfacing (mid-weight), e. g. Pellon 931 TD: ½ yd or 0.5 m
1 magnetic snap
1 D-ring (½”/1.5 cm)
1 swivel clip
Pattern pieces #1 through #3 (see last pages of PDF file)
Helpful hint: You may exchange heavy stabilizer for fusible fleece, e.g. Pellon 987F. This will make the bag a little easier to sew since fleece does not have quite the sturdiness that heavy stabilizer has.
Note: When printing the pattern pieces make sure your printer settings (size options) are set to “actual size” and not to “fit,” otherwise the pattern will NOT be the right size! Use the 1″/2.5 cm square for comparison.
Please read all instructions before you begin.
All seam allowances are ⅜” (1 cm) unless stated otherwise. All pattern pieces include the seam allowance. All cutting measurements given are height x width.
Cut out the pattern pieces:
From exterior fabric:
(2 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – main body
(1 x) pattern piece #2 on the fold – flap (outer part with pleats)
(1 x) pattern piece #3 on the fold – flap (inner part without pleats)
From lining fabric:
(2 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – main body
(1 x) 2 ¼” x 44″ (5.5 x 110 cm) – strap
(1 x) 2 ¼” x 13″ (5.5 x 35 cm) – wristlet strap
(1 x) 2 ¼” x 2 3/4″ (5.5 x 7 cm) – wristlet strap extender
From heavy fusible stabilizer or fusible fleece:
(To prevent bulk you may cut heavy fusible stabilizer/fusible fleece without the seam allowance of ⅜”, or 1 cm, i. e. cut it ⅜”, or 1 cm, shorter on all edges.)
(2 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – main body
(1 x) pattern piece #3 on the fold – flap (inner part)
From fusible interfacing:
(2 x) pattern piece #1 on the fold – main body
(1 x) pattern piece #2 on the fold – flap (outer part)
Instructions:
1. Prepare the fabric pieces: Iron heavy fusible stabilizer/fusible fleece and fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric.
Helpful hint: If you use non-fusible stabilizer for this project, simply baste it to the wrong sides of the fabric using a ¼” (0.5 cm) seam allowance to make sure it stays in place.
Fuse heavy stabilizer/fleece to:
2 x exterior main body (cut with pattern piece #1)
1 x flap, inner part (cut with pattern piece #3)
Fuse interfacing to:
2 x lining main body (cut with pattern piece #1)
1 x flap, outer part (cut with pattern piece #2)
2. Insert the magnetic snap: Transfer the markings for the magnetic snap from pattern piece #1 onto one of the exterior main body panels. This will be the front main body panel of your bag.
Transfer the markings for the magnetic snap from pattern piece #3 onto the flap piece you interfaced with heavy stabilizer.
Insert the magnetic snap at the spots you marked: the female part (which has a recess in the center) goes on one of the exterior main body panels. Using the washer (the little plate that goes on the back of the snap), mark the two slots for the snap centered on the spot you marked.
With your seam ripper make two small slits into the main body panel. Push the prongs of the magnetic snap through the slits. Place the washer on top and bend the prongs down.
Repeat the three previous steps to insert the male part of the magnetic snap on the flap.
3. Make the exterior main body: On the right side of one of the exterior main body panels fold one of the top corners down so that the two edges of the cut-out bottom corner match.
Pin in place and stitch the corner darts. Repeat with the other bottom corner of the main body panel and then with the two corners of the second exterior main body panel. You should end up with two corner darts on either main body panel.
Trim the seam allowance. Put the two exterior main body panels right sides together, matching all edges and stitch along the side edges and the bottom edge. Make sure that the corner seams are aligned.
Trim the seam allowance and notch the curves (i. e. cut small “v”s into the fabric). Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
Turn the exterior right side out and press.
4. Make the bag lining: Follow the previous instructions of Step 3 to assemble the bag lining, except leave an opening at the bottom edge of approx. 4.5″ (12 cm). Leave the bag lining wrong side out.
5. Make the wristlet strap extender: On the fabric piece for the wristlet strap extender, fold down both short edges (the ones that measure 2 ¼” in height) to the wrong side by ⅜” (1 cm). Then fold the fabric piece in half horizontally wrong sides together and press (see first picture below). Open up again and fold both long edges towards the middle crease and press again. Fold horizontally again, matching the two folded edges (see second picture below). Press. Your folded strap should now measure 2″ x ½” (5 x 1.8 cm).
Topstitch along both long edges using a ⅛” (3 mm) seam allowance.
Fold the strap extender in half and slide it over the D-ring. Place D-ring and extender onto the inner flap (the one you cut with pattern piece #3 and interfaced with heavy stabilizer), having the D-ring face towards the side edge of the bag flap and the strap end towards the center of the flap: the strap end should be positioned 2″ (5 cm) in from the side edge of the flap and ¾” (2 cm) up from the straight edge of the flap. Topstitch the strap extender in place. Use the picture above for help.
6. Make the cross-body strap and wristlet strap: Repeat the folding and stitching of step e) for the cross-body strap. You don’t need to fold down the short edges. Both short ends will be unfinished after folding. Set the cross-body strap aside.
Repeat the folding and stitching of Step 5 for the wristlet strap but only fold down one of the short edges. You will have one finished and one unfinished short end after folding.
Slide the end with the unfinished edge through the swivel clip and fold it down. Now bring the other (finished) end of the strap over and on top of the unfinished edge so that both strap ends overlap.
Pin in place and stitch across the spot where both strap ends overlap. Go back and forth a few times to make sure the strap is well secured. Set the wristlet strap aside.
7. Make the flap: On the outer flap piece (cut with pattern piece #2), fold the pleats: On the right-hand side of the flap, bring the “a”-marking up and over to the center and pin the fold in place.
Repeat for the left-hand side pleat. In the picture above you can see the result after making the first two (inner) pleats in the center of the bag flap. The outer pleats are still unfolded.
Fold the remaining two pleats, again starting on the right-hand side of the flap: bring the “c”-marking up and over the “b”-marking and pin the pleat in place.
Repeat for the last pleat on the left-hand side of the flap. Baste across the pleats using a ⅛” (3 mm) seam allowance to make sure they stay in place.
Place the inner flap piece and the outer flap piece right sides together, all edges matching. Pin in place and stitch around the edges but leave the top edge open. Trim the seam allowance and notch the curves.
Turn the flap right side out and press. Topstitch all around the finished edges using a ¼” (0.5 cm) seam allowance.
Put the flap (outer side down so that you will see the inner side with the snap) centered onto the outer side of the upper edge of the back exterior main body (the one without the snap).
Pin in place and stitch along the top edge using a ¼” (0.5 cm) seam allowance.
Place your cross-body strap with both raw edges onto the bag flap: place the outer edges of the strap right next to the edges of the flap. The raw edges of strap and flap should be aligned. Before you stitch the strap down, make sure it is not twisted. Pin in place and stitch across the strap ends using a ¼” (0.5 cm) seam allowance.
8. Assemble the bag: Pull the bag lining (which is still wrong side out) over the bag exterior (which is right side out). Tuck in the flap and the strap. Align all edges of both lining and exterior, making sure that the side seams match.
Pin in place and stitch around the top edge. Use sewing clips if the layers are too thick for pins due to the heavy stabilizer.
Trim the seam allowance. Turn the bag right side out by pulling the exterior through the opening of the lining. Poke out all corners and iron well.
Fold the seam allowances of the opening of the lining down to the inside and topstitch the opening closed.
Tuck the lining into the exterior. Topstitch around the top of the bag, approx. ½” (0.5 cm) down from the top edge.
Clip the wristlet strap to the strap extender on the inside of the bag flap.
Your bag is now complete. Enjoy!
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